Thursday, February 6, 2014

Random Thoughts


Some new musings about Tanzania

-     -  Celebrating holidays in the village is a lot of fun.  For Idd-el-Haji (the end of the pilgrimage to Mecca, though from what I understand, people around the world celebrate it, even if they didn’t actually do the pilgrimage), my game plan consisted of one simple idea: just walk around the village.  And it worked brilliantly!  I got invited to many homes all around, and went to an area that I don’t go very often.  Many of my students live out there, so I was able to visit their families.  It was adorable seeing some of the mamas, who were so welcoming and brought me chai, pilau (spiced rice cooked with meat), meat pieces (a big treat), Tanzanian chapati (like fried tortillas), mandazi (fried doughballs), an avocado…I am not kidding when I say that I don’t think I’ve eaten that much in my entire life.  One of my students walked me around to a bunch of people’s houses.  He then dropped me off at his friend’s, who then continued escorting me around.  It was useful having a Tanzanian take me around, as they’re much better at turning down food when full than I am when I’m alone.  To sum up the day, I left my house at about 9:30 in the morning, and returned at about 6pm.  As Tanzanians are incredibly welcoming all of the time, but especially around the holidays, it gets hard to refuse food and drink.  But I felt better than I usually do about dropping in on people unannounced, as they had all prepared food already, rather than having to start the fire in order to make tea.  Plus it’s a day that people expect visitors to come by, so I was being completely culturally appropriate.  The villagers seemed excited to have me come, and I was happy to see so many wonderful people.  However, I was wildly full afterward.  I literally didn’t eat for a full 24-hours afterward.

-      -  There tends to be some very unrealistic ideas of time here.  Granted, many cultures have very different views of punctuality and time compared to Americans and many Western Europeans.  Tanzania definitely falls into this category.  Often times, my bus to my village will say that they’ll leave at noon, but we won’t leave until 2:30 or 3pm.  Sometimes later.  Waiting is just a very large part of traveling here.  But besides being late, I find that Tanzanians just don’t know how much time it will actually take to do something, or don’t pay attention to it.  For example, teachers at my school will tell students to go fetch water.  This is pretty common in most schools.  But our school and village area have a definite water problem.  The majority of the year, the students have to walk approximately 20 minutes.  One way.  Then sometimes they have to wait for enough water to fill a bucket.  Then they have to walk back.  Uphill with full buckets of water.  It’s not an easy trip.  Sometimes they have to walk even farther.  And the teachers often tell the students to go and come back in 15 minutes.  Seriously, 15 minutes?  Are they crazy?  Not always, but sometimes the teachers will give students a hard time if they come back late, one’s even beat them for being late.  Gah!  It’s impossible for them to make the trip that quickly! 

Another example of an unrealistic expectation of time was when my school district decided that every school in the district needed to build a laboratory.  My headmaster went to a meeting in October, where they informed everyone of this new district requirement.  The construction was to be finished by the end of November.  Even in a place like the United States, it would be difficult to meet that kind of deadline.  Then you include details like people having to carry the rocks for the foundation on their heads to the worksite, getting enough water to make the cement and mortar, etc, and getting the manpower to do all of this.  It’s mid January and we’ve barely gotten the foundation done.  It’ll be interesting how long it will actually take to finish.  Considering that our final classroom was supposed to be finished last February and still isn’t done…I don’t have high hopes.

-      -  Tanzanians love tea.  I love it too, but tea is a huge part of Tanzanian culture.  They super duper love it.  One village elder told me that he can’t go two hours without a cup of tea.  It has a lot of benefits.  The water is boiled, so it’s safe to drink.  They add a million spoonfuls of sugar so they get calories in their system (and bad teeth in the process).  In my region of Tanga, they add spices like cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, pepper, and it’s VERY good.  I’ve been to other regions and had their chai, but I’m very biased toward tea from Tanga.  Especially in my village.  100tsh (about 6 cents) for a cup.  Best prices ever!  When I go other places, I usually balk at the price, but village life is extremely cheap.  When people drink tea, they usually have something like mandazi (fried dough, kinda like a sopapilla without all the extra air inside) or chapati to eat with it.  Around my village, when people have a guest come by, they almost always make chai and serve mandazi.

I actually got to help make mandazi a few times at two different shops.  At one shop operated by a mama and five primary-school aged girls, I got to help roll out the mandazi, and giggled with the little girls the entire time we were rolling them out.  At the other, it was a much bigger operation run by a guy named Baraka.  Baraka’s mandazi are the best I’ve had, honestly, and he makes a couple hundred every day. I mostly observed when I was at his shop, but helped as I could.  I happened to go there after a particularly bad day at school (rampant beatings…because I wasn’t actually teaching that day, I stormed out).  When I got to the shop, I got tea and one mandazi and sat with some of my former form 4 students (they’d already finished school but were still around the village).  It started to rain.  Even though the shop isn’t far from my house, I hung around.  Then Baraka and my former student Ramadhani started to light the fire and get stuff ready to make mandazi.  I asked if I could watch them, and they just smiled and said it wasn’t a problem.  I ended up staying for 4 hours, got 5 free mandazi, and 4 cups of tea.  It was a great end to a crappy day, and I was incredibly thankful for my villagers.

1 comment:

  1. My favorite tea is stuff I had in your village. Love Dad

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